Italians and passionate about their wine and no trip to Italy is complete without an intimate encounter with their wines. The country produces a staggering amount of wine and sifting through all of it to locate the best labels can be a challenge. This article will let you know the basics of understanding Italian wines; reading labels, understanding classifications and knowing the best wine regions besides tipping you generously on how to buy wines.
Italian Wine Labels & Classifications
Italian wine labels are notoriously difficult to decipher and at least having a working idea of what all those confusing terminology means will help you in choosing your bottles more prudently.
So the next time you are staring puzzled at a wine label try to identify the following features. The type of wine is indicated by the region and the classification level and these two are usually put next to each other. Obviously region means the area where the grapes hail from and classification is DOC/ DOCG/IGT/ Table wine etc. For the record, DOCG stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita/ Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin while DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata/ Denomination of Controlled Origin.
There are around 330 DOC wines in Italy today but only 73 DOCG wines, so don’t miss a chance to taste them. Italian wine law is monitored strictly by Ministry of agriculture which claims that DOCG is the highest quality designation given to Italian wines. The official seal impressions of DOCG is stamped on a light pink paper strip that covers the top of the bottle.
If the wine has a specific name then it’s probably a blend and if it has the grape name then probably it’s a pure strain. There are more than 350 common indigenous wine grape variants in Italy so you can easily imagine the amount of choice you will have. A good trick is to see whether the name has the letters ‘di’ or ‘d’ and then you know for sure that it’s a grape name. Other common words you will see are Poggio (means elevated place or hill), Tenuta (land holding), Vigneto (vineyard), Castello (wine estate), Fattoria (wine farm), Azienda (company), Superriore (high quality designation), Classico (classic zone in a particular region) and Riserva (wine that’s been aged for longer).
The producers name can either be a single word (for example Valentini) or a cooperative (Cantina di Carpi e Sorbara) or a large brand. Obviously, wine from a single producer is rarer to find and it’s exactly this kind of wine you are apt to be exposed to when you take a Wine tour to a vineyard around Rome.
On the other hand if you visit a large restaurant or prominent bar then you will see a stock comprising of mostly brands with some cooperatives and very rarely single producers. Visiting a large Italian wine bar is an experience in itself… find out which ones to visit when you are in Rome.
Like French wines, Italian wines are named after particular regions and each region is classified. For example, a wine named Chianti Classico DOCG means that the wine is from Chianti region in Toscana and has minimum percentage of 80% Sangiovese grapes (a DOCG requirement). Then there are simpler named wines like Ruffino Modus… these are classified as IGT meaning that they are atypical blends of grapes that haven’t been classified. As a rule DOCG / DOC wine is qualitatively higher than IGT but there are exceptions like the super Tuscans.
The DOC regulation was introduced in 1960 and is equivalent to the French AOC system (read our article about French wines here). The DOC regulations specify wine colour, production area, minimum and maximum alcohol levels and viticulture, vinification and maturity processes. With such stringent specifications there are only about 330 DOC wines in Italy so you should definitely target tasting them.
Given how finicky the Italian agricultural department is, it went a step further and created the DOCG classification in 1980 as it felt that DOC wasn’t strict enough!! DOCG wine rules are way too complicated to explain here and then each wine has to pass in depth technical analysis to receive the DOCG seal…the highest quality badge in Italy viniculture. There were originally just 5 DOCG’s but now there are 73. Most food tours will offer exposure to a least one DOCG and one DOC
Where there are rules there are always rebels and the super Tuscans prove that. The Tignanello, Sassacia, and Ornellaia wines (hailing from Toscana and made with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah etc.) are now the toast of the wine world but once upon a time they were awarded lowly ‘table wine’/ Vino da Tavola status. The producers of these wines felt that DOC/ DOCG rules were too strict and therefore they created their creative best variants and priced them highly. Given how successful the super Tuscans were the government then placed them under the IGT classification.
Italian Wine Regions
There are more than 20 wine regions in Italy so basically wherever you go in the country it’s easy to access a vineyard. However serious wine connoisseurs are mostly found foraging in the top 6 wine belts of Italy i.e. Veneto, Sicily, Piedmont, Tuscany, Puglia, Marche and Abruzzo.
Veneto
Veneto is in northeast Italy and many call it the most important wine growing region… in fact for many people their first experience of Italian wine is a Veneto strain. It produced Italy’s answer to Champagne… the delicious Prosecco cultured from the Glera grapes that primarily grow in the Valdobbiadene region. Most social gatherings, parties and even food tours offer Prosecco in liberal quantities… Champagne’s affordable cousin and tastes equally delicious and is slightly on the sweeter end of the spectrum.
Another prime wine growing region in Veneto is the Valpolicella that has 3 major grape strains Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinara. This region has the strongest concentration of wineries and it lies just near Lake Garda and Verona (world heritage city). Verona (one of Italy’s most beautiful cities) is known to have been making wine since the bronze ages and is worth a visit if you want to do a self-guided wine journey.
If you ever do a wine tour from Venice then it will surely include some Valpolicella vineyards. Reccioto (sweet dessert wines), Amarone (bitter wine used for apertifs) and Ripasso wines are famous creations of Valpolicella.
Other magnificent blends from Veneto are Soave (crisp white wine made from Garganega grapes) that’s grown near the Alps and the more robust Bardolino wines. Once you travel to Veneto don’t miss checking Italy’s first wine touring road… the Strada Del Vino of Veneto. A typical Strada del Vino will encompass the Bardolino road, Valpolicella road and the Eugnanean Hills. The Hills of Euganean are home to 13 different strains of DOC wines, the best of which is Moscato Fior d’Arancio and other noteworthy ones are Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Merlot, Cabernet and Serprino.
Le Bignele in the Valpollicella classic area does wonderful tastings and has a beautiful farm setting. The Cantina San Gregorio vineyard in via San Gregorio (Valdobbiadene) is the perfect place to visit if you want to pick up some excellent value Prosecco.
If you want to buy mid-range Prosecco from the Veneto region then try the Prosecco wines from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG and Colli Asolani DOCG region. Speaking of Prosecco the best variant around is the Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze that sells at ‘Champagne’ prices. The gorgeous villa Sandi winery on Vigna La Rivetta is the best place to pick up a bottle of this but it’s stocked in supermarkets and enotecas all across Italy.
Tuscany
Tuscany is one of the most beautiful areas of Italy and is known for its idyllic landscape and lovely hamlets. Maximum number of food tours centre around Tuscany and it produces a great quantity of DOCG and DOC wines besides the famed super Tuscans which defies the rigid classification system of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture. Almost all styles of wine are produced here right from dry white wines to robust reds to delicate sweet wines. Tuscany is famous for the Sangriove grapes and though they are used to make many wine blends, the queen amongst grapes is officially the Chianti.
2 amazing DOCG Chianti blends are DOCG Chianti Tenuta San Vito (dark red wine infused with cherries) and DOCG Chianti Tenuta San Vito (blends of Chianti, Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo grapes). Chianti grapes are the biggest crop in Tuscany and you will see multiple villages and towns exclusively producing Chianti blends.
Another famous white wine from Tuscany is Vernaccia di San Gimignano (cultured from the citrusy Vernaccia grapes). Then there are delectable sweet wines like Vin Santo that is an ambrosial blend made of Trebbiano and Malvasia wines. Incidentally Tuscany is known for its cantucci (doubled baked cookies dipped in Vin Santo). Any discussion about Tuscany is incomplete without a mention of its super Tuscans i.e. Brunello di Montalcino, Barbaresco and Barolo.
Incidentally if you are planning to do a self-guided vineyard tour in Tuscany then the Marchesi di Barolo (fifth generation family business) and the Redaelli de Zinis (environmental friendly DOC producer) near Lake Garda are two great destinations. And if vintage wineries interest you then visit any one of the units run by the Frescobaldi family (30 generations of winemakers producing wine over 700 years). The Marchesi de; Frescobaldi units are scattered all over north to south Tuscany …. Pomino, Nipozzano, Castiglioni, Castelgiocondo and Ammiraglia.
Piedmont
Many oenologists believe that Piedmont is equal or even better than Tuscany in terms of wine quality. It produces the largest quantity of DOCG wine by volume and its location at the foothills of Alps gives it perfect weather. The best grapes here are Barberra and Nebbiolo and they create two famous Italian blends; Barbaresco and Barolo. Then there are the dry red wines made from Dolcetto grapes and the sweet sparkling red wines made from Bracetto grapes.
Piedmont is said to be equal to France’s Burgundy region and is famous for its small artisanal vineyards. Incidentally Italy’s famed slow food movement was born in Piedmont and the University of Gastronomic Sciences is called the origin of slow food. The university has a legendary wine vault which you should definitely try to visit… they also hold wine tours and tastings.
If you are in Piedmont then don’t forget to pick up DOCG Barolo Vigna Rocche and La Raia DOCG Gavi. Cuisine in Piedmont is rich and robust and the strong red wines of this region complements the food beautifully. A notable exception is the Asti Spumanti (a light champagne like sparkling wine) that’s made from Moscato grapes.
Vezza d Alba in Piedmont has the aristocratic Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero winery… named after the regal Roero family who were the original owners. Their farmstead, wine making machinery and the architecture are all vintage and make for a great day trip visit.
Marche And Abruzzo
The twin wine growing regions in central Italy are famous for producing the white Verdicchio and red Montepulciano grapes respectively
Marche’s wine making traditions date back to the age of Etruscans and it has more than 25,000 hectares of vineyards where its signature Verdicchio and Trebbiano grapes are grown.
Abruzzo lies to the south of Marche and is relatively new as compared to Marche though it has now been making wine for 200 years. Area wise, this is a larger wine making region with 89,000 hectares of vineyards. Besides the luscious Montepulciano grapes, Abruzzo grows Trebbiano, Pecorino, Chardonnay and Merlot. There is the multiple award winning winery and farm Azienda Agricola Valentini in the Pescara province of Abruzzo which is dated to the 16th century. They produce olives, vinegar and wine and have won many awards and accolades for the quality of their produce.
If you are in Abruzzo then pick up Jasi DOC Montepulciano Abruzzo (mature red wine with under tones of cinnamon and vanilla) and Jasci DOC Montepulciano d Abrizzo (a biodynamic white wine with a nutty flavour and citrus notes).
Puglia
Puglia is a tall thin region in the south east corner of the boot of Italy. Puglia comprises of all of the area from the point of its heel to the spur of the Gargano peninsula. The heel area is Salento peninsula and has a Greek past and the best south Puglian wines are robust, spiced and full bodied. Though Puglia has a history of Table wine production and wasn’t regarded as a fine wine producer, that has changed in the last few years with artisanal wines, DOC blends and even DOCG wines.
One of the best wines to pick up from South Puglia is Primitivo di Manduria that’s grown in the Taranto province near Manduria city… it’s the very first DOCG to come out of this region. The limestone and clay soil of this area gives the grapes a different flavour and the wines are dry and sharp complementing cold cuts and Puglia style Pasta nicely.
Or if you are visiting the Foggia province then pick up the dark red (almost black) Nero di Troia that has been around since Swabian monarch Federico II. The wine has spice, licorice and blackberry infusions. A famous grape of Puglia is the Negramaro that has been around since the 6th century. Wines of this grape are full bodied, red and have undertones of blackberries and tobacco. Try visiting the Carvinea winery that’s south of Ostuni near Carovigno… they have many award winning blends. Then there is Tenute Chiaromonte (Gioia Del Colle DOC region) in Central Puglia that produces only organic wines.
North Puglia produces elegant wines with floral undertones and moderate tannin content. One of the best wines from this region is Aglianico from the Castel del Monte DOC area.
Sicily
Sicily; the biggest island of the Mediterranean Sea… the haunt of Italian Godfathers produces the most delicious sweet wines that you would have ever tasted. Before being the Colour of the Year, a brandy fortified Sicilian sweet wine blend was named Marsala and since then many chefs have sworn by its ability to create caramel sauces. Another lovely wine from this region is Zibibbo (hails from the island Pantelleria). If you like robust Reds then you will love Nero d Avola that has a strong tannin content and high acidity.
If you are in Sicily then try visiting one of the Planeta wine estates; the 17th generation owners now have 6 estates between Sambuca Sicilia and Menfi. The Nero d Avola is their creation and so is Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. And then of course there is Madeira, sherry and port which go excellently with the desserts and pastries that Sicily is famous for. Nearly 90% of Sicilian wines are dessert wines. Sicilian wine is right now on a roll and the ‘Mt Etna wines’ seem to be everywhere. However if you are keen on buying DOCG labels only then go for the wines of Vittoria. The region is only DOCG zone. The Vittoria wines are a mix of Nero d Avola and Frappato.
How to buy wine from shops in Italy
Obviously the best way to buy wine from Italy is pick up bottles directly from the wineries. Meeting the winemakers family, getting an overview of the process and buying some limited edition bottles makes for a lovely experience. Wines in Italy are quite area specific… for example go to a supermarket in Abruzzo and you will find that the wine section is full of Abruzzan wines and not much else. So whichever part of Italy you are in, buying local will give you better value and better quality.
If you have the chance then doing some fabulous wine shopping while visiting the local manufacturer is great. However if you aren’t doing wine tours then the Italian supermarkets and wine cellars are also great places to pick up bottles.
Between Rome, Venice and Florence, the latter offers a far superior collection of wines in its supermarkets as the cream of the Tuscan region is stocked here. Go to Enotecca Alessi (via delle Oche), Enoteca Alla Sosta dei Papi (Via Borgo), Fattoria San Michele (stocks organic wines only and located on Via Agnolo). If you are on a tight budget then you can even bring empty bottles and fill them up with wines of your choice in Enotecas. This ‘alla spina’ or wine on tap is done in many places in Italy but the practice is rampant in Florence. Some really good Tuscan wines under 20 euros would be Chianti Classico, Rosso Montalcino, Lamoli de Lamoli and Nipozzano.
Rome has an enviable collection of wine bottles but much of it is from beyond Italy. Enoteca Romana (Piazza Bologna), Les Vignerons (Trastevere), Constantini (Prati) and Trimani (near Termini station) have the best collection and trained staff who will help you choose your bottles.
Venice has amazing wine stores like Al Bottegon (Dorsoduro), Vineria all’Amarone (Calle dei Sbianchesini), Estro (Dorsoduro), though it’s really a shame to be in Veneto and not buy wine from the many awesome vineyards around. Some great Veneto strains to buy under 20 euros are Roze Veneto Duce della Rocca, Maculan Pino e Toi, Begali Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso etc.
If you are in Italy and want to shop for rarer wines then buy labels from regions like Lazio, Liguria, Calabria and Basilicata as these are not usually exported to USA and UK.
And as for wine and food pairing remember a few basic rules when you visit any Italian restaurant. Tomato based pastas pair well with medium bodied red wine while cheese based pasta pairs best with full bodied white wine/ light bodied red wine. Seafood dishes and vegetable based pasta go well with white wines. And as for pairing wine and cheese…that’s an entire book in itself. The best way to learn the basics of cheese wine partnership is to take a food tour in Italy. Rome has a number of wine and cheese tours… read more about them here.
A travel addict. Still celebrating the day when he quit his high-profile corporate job to pursue his passion for travel writing.